User Tips

Proper Job Pop Ups

All of the pop up range can be whittled and shaped using a sharp blade to suit a particular job in hand. I would advise to remove only thin slithers at a time and you should end up with a very smooth clean cut surface to the bait. 

I would advise mounting an 11mm pop up on the hair prior to whittling/shaping, as piercing a 7/8mm slither may prove difficult, and the bait may split if your needle is to large or when you pull the hair material through the bait.
Fragments of an
11mm pop up are ideal for popping up/balancing small (10/12mm) bottom baits.

As a general guide 1 x 11mm pop up will balance 2 x 14mm bottom baits, for the perfect snowman presentation, and as you may of guessed one half of a 11mm pop up makes a nice top knot for a single 14mm bottom bait.
Don't forget you can pinch a split shot onto the hair just behind the pop up, or you can insert some soldering wire into the pop up to counteract its buoyancy.

The 13mm pop up range can be whittled down and shaped like a piece of maize, to be used on its own or mounted under a piece of real maize and fished as a pop up or balanced bait.
This new range of pop ups will work a treat for all you
choddy & zig riggers out there. I made the 13 millers with chod type rigs in mind.

I have found that the best way to cut one of my pop ups in half is to use a sharp blade.

Failing that I will push a baiting needle twice though the centre of the pop up, and then use a sharp blade to follow the line of the pilot holes made by the baiting needle to cut the pop up in half.
Prior to tying a firm pop up on using floss, I will use the side of a baiting needle shaft to form a shallow groove indentation around the central body of the pop up, into which I will tighten the floss. Doing this will ensure that even the most animal long range casters out there, won’t be fishing with a hook only presentation.

Counterbalancing Pop Ups (a guide to the pop ups performance)

I have carried out some tests to see what weight was necessary to counterbalance the buoyancy of my pop ups. The tests were carried out by passing a looped braided hair through the pop up and securing with a small hair stop. Split shot was then added to the hair until the pop up reached a state of neutral buoyancy. The following is the result of my six tests:

1/ 1 x 11mm pop up took 2 x No 4 & 1 x No 6 split shot.

2/ 1 x 13mm pop up took 3 x No 4 & 1 x No 6 split shot.

3/ 1 x 15mm pop up took 3 x No 4 & 1 x No 6 split shot.

4/ 1 x 15mm Mega Buoyant pop up took 5 x No 4 split shot.

5/ 1 x 12mm x 17mm Mega Buoyant pop up took 5 x No 4 split shot.

6/ 1 x 10mm x 15mm pop up took 3 x No 4 split shot.

To test if the Proper Jobs are suitable to be used on your chosen presentation/rig, I would suggest that you thread a cork ball onto some hair material and secure the cork ball with a small hair stop. Then add the appropriate amount of split shot (as specified in the performance chart) to the tail end of the hair material and test the buoyancy of the cork ball in water. If the cork ball floats you must whittle bits off the cork ball until it reaches a state of neutral buoyancy. Then transfer the whittled cork ball to your rig (as the cork ball will now have the same buoyancy as the size of pop up you matched it to using the performance chart) and check for yourself if the buoyancy is suitable for your needs.


Are you a rig person (I am).I think as a general rule pop up rigs are more efficient hookers than bottom bait rigs. Pop up rigs can leave there users more in control of the mechanics of the hooking arrangement.
Now you must bear in mind, that when I say pop up rigs I am not necessarily talking about a pop up rig which is raised any more than 25/30mm above the lake bed, and I generally refer to this method as a low down pop up rig, which has done me proud on many waters including silt pits, producing several carp to forty pounds plus.

I can remember reading many years ago, that it was thought that the size of the hook being used had to balance nicely with the size of the bait being used ( for example: a 10mm diameter bait = a size 10 hook or a 16mm diameter bait = a size 6 hook and so on ). Now this in my view is understandable when bottom baits are being used. But it has NO place when pop ups are the order of the day.

 It makes me smile when I see anglers using little tiny hooks (size 10 or smaller), fishing weedy lakes which hold forty pound plus carp.
Now confidence plays a major part in my view and if you are confident using small hooks long may you continue to do so.

Now to me the most important element of a rigs design is IT DON'T TANGLE and the next most important element is AS MUCH UNBALANCE IN THE BUSINESS END AS POSSIBLE without compromising the tangling issue, and this unbalance is easier to achieve using the larger hooks sized between 4s-8s inclusive, with 6s being a pretty good all rounder.

It has been my experience that the sizes of hooks mention above have a much better chance of finding a secure purchase than a tiny hook, when the weight of the larger hook is partly negated by the buoyancy of the pop up being used.

Also you must bear in mind that I am writing generally about fishing in the UK for carp weighing from 10-50lbs.

Storage Details

All baits have gone through a lengthy air drying process and they have had no proprietary preservatives added to them and because of this it is important to look after them with a bit more care than baits which have had a proprietary preservative added to them.

Even though the pop ups do not have a proprietary preservative in them some have natural sweeteners or salt added and these items will act as a preservative to a degree as will the preservative qualities of the flavours as well.

Keep all baits sealed within the container you received them in at normal room temperature and avoid rapid fluctuations of temperature as this may cause condensation to form inside the tub.

Keep all baits out of direct sunlight

Do not keep baits in the fridge or cool box/bag as condensation will form inside the tub causing dampness which should be avoided.

If you should be out fishing on a damp/miserable day and you are concerned that some damp air may have got into the tub of baits I would advise to sprinkle a small amount of Rock Salt into the tub of baits as this will absorb any moisture present (Tip: I sometimes keep my pop ups packed in rock salt as carp seem to love the stuff).

If for any reason the pop ups should be left out in the rain for a short period of time tip the pop ups out into an air drying tray (or similar) and leave in a warm room for a couple of days to dry and fingers crossed they may be okay.

Basically what I am saying is follow the above guidelines and keep the pop ups in your tackle bag/rucksack and they should remain in good condition for more than one year (some of my friends are still using a tub or two of proper job pop ups some two years or more after receiving them and still catching).

Glugging Guidelines

Glugging the pop ups over a long period of time will marginally affect their buoyancy because as a general rule glugging solutions are denser than water (some friends of mine have had some proper job pop ups soaking in a solar pot shot for up to a year now and they say that they have not noticed any significant loss of buoyancy during this time).

Do not use fish oils as a glug (as a dip “Yes”) because they will go rancid over a very short period of time.

As a general rule most off the shelf glugging solutions act as an excellent preservative and baits/pop ups can be left in them for very long periods of time.

If you make your own glugging solution using a water based and or fish oil product please be aware that the pop ups may have to be kept in the fridge between sessions (and in the cool bag when on a session) and the overall life expectancy of the pop ups may be greatly reduced.

Please be aware that if you like to critically balance your pop up (a pop up which sinks so slowly under the weight of the counterbalancing shot/putty it seems to take forever to touchdown on the lake bed) using a heavily glugged pop up, when the denser glug solution leeches from the pop up, the pop up will become lighter (more buoyant) and it will rise from the lake bed leaving its user fishing straight off the lead. I think it pays to marginally over weight pop ups of this nature to overcome this potential problem.

Note: The containers I use to contain the pop ups are not leak resistant so it would be wise to transfer any pop ups you intend to soak into a separate leak proof container.


If you are ever fortunate enough to have reached a state of mind where you have absolute confidence in your bait, bait application and rig designs and all you have to worry about is putting your bait somewhere, where that big kipper will find it.




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